Crystal clear waters, sun-drenched, white sugary sands, picturesque hills, and weather-worn cliffs… Boracay Beach is an idyllic tourist haven that lulls travelers into tranquil harmony with nature. A magical paradise set in the unspoilt South China Seas that fascinates visitors, tired of the bright lights and busy streets of the city. This is how I imagined our destination before leaving Manila …
To the port
At 1:30 PM, I, along with my friends, hopped in the PHILTRANCO bus headed for I was warned that this trip would be too long, 12 hours maximum to be exact. Wonder how I’d last this trip without getting bored and nauseated. I took a pill of Bonamine for my motion sickness. I had to rely on my friends to defeat boredom.
It wasn’t really my first long road trip, so I knew it wouldn’t be that bad. I knew it would be just like my trip to Pagudpod up north. But this time, I was headed down south.
After an hour and a half of dozing off amidst the chitchatting Mark and Noel, who were right behind Jaki and me, our bus exited from the South Luzon Expressway and turned right to the highway leading to Batangas City. It’s a familiar scene for me. I passed this way when I joined the Mapúa mountaineers in trekking
First stop!
At around 4:30 PM, our fast but carefully-driven bus skidded right to a dusty road and parked right in front of what looked like a mini-restaurant. The driver and his pals went straight to a dining table situated at the far-left side of the restaurant, obviously dedicated for bus crews. A couple of bus passengers, including Noel who seemed very hungry from work, took their early dinner; some just stretched their backs, smoked a stick or two, or breathed in the Batangas air. Twenty minutes later, we hit the road again.
At 5:30 PM, our bus hurried down the
After a minute of being unsettled by the strangers, we roamed around the ferry and landed at the open top-most deck of the vessel. A cold, swampy smell kissed my nose as we gathered right at the tip of the ferry facing west. The sun was about to set when the ferry sailed off the port on an approximately 30 hours/km speed. The sea wasn’t calm, but it wasn’t really a turbulent ride. I could feel the sea waves faintly bumping into the vessel as we headed towards
We bought hot soupy snacks from the mini-bar of the ferry and ate, squatting on the concrete floor, against the biting cold of the wind. We could have eaten our mini-dinner inside the more-cozier area of the ferry, but we chose to sip our soups in the open. It was actually a picnic in the dark, but it was fun.
Night ride through
We were back on our bus seats after the 2-hour-ferry ride. It was, as I was told, the longest hour of our trip to Boracay. It was, indeed, the longest, and most agonizing, because it’s a 4-hour drive in the middle of the night. I’m used to it though because I usually take night trips to
Instead of feeling wasted and a cat on a hot tin roof, I snuggled upon my pillow and dozed off. Behind us, Mark and Noel must have eventually found their most comfortable inclined position, and started snoring.
I was only awakened from the smooth bus ride when the lights were put on. I peeked through the window and caught a sign –
The bus pulled over at our second bus stop. There was an eatery, surrounded by pull-over stores, selling quail eggs, balut, peanuts, oranges, chicheria, etc. The comfort rooms were clean enough for a pee rest. And the folks were kind enough to entertain Mark’s questions about where we were in the wee hour of the morning and how far we were from Boracay. After thirty minutes, we queued, carrying our backpacks, for the ferry ride to Caticlan.
Off to Caticlan
It’s a longer ferry ride, but it’s exciting because we were inching closer to our ultimate destination –
Our ferry approached Caticlan at sunrise. From the ferry, I could see sailboats from all directions and ferries docked at the bay area. While the ferry crews prepared to dock, we spent the last 15 minutes snapping still photos and capturing videos of the activities aboard the ferry and sceneries surrounding the Caticlan port. At last, the ferry docked.
Sail from Caliclan to Boracay
Noel’s video camera was running as he stepped out of the ferry, documenting every nook and cranny of the Caticlan port area from where we’d sail to
The thought of riding that small boat in the middle of the sea made my tummy churn. I grew pale as the boat sailed away from the port area. I lulled my mind to sleep the whole time, and thanks to the comforting arms of Noel who was sitting beside me. I survived the sail and as I gazed at the beautiful sight we were approaching, my nerves began to relax. At exactly 6 AM in the morning, we set foot on very fine, white, cool sands.
the final destination
We walked along the sun-drenched sand, washed by perpetually turquoise water, towards our home for 2 nights and 3 days – the Boracay Courtyard. We passed by NigiNigi, the bar-restaurant which marked that we’re at the center of the
Next to NigiNigi was an alley leading to a row of hotels, on my left side, and huts, on my right. While waiting for Mark, who was walking too slow as he was feeding the video camera with scenes and people catching the morning sun at the beach, I tried on an irregular-shaped, grayish pearl pendant hanging on a mannequin’s neck in the shop that also displayed colorful and intricately designed bags, hats, slippers, and other stuff. Three hotel buildings from this shop was Boracay Courtyard.
We checked in our belongings and left the 3-storey building to eat breakfast at NigiNigi. Jaki and I ordered the English breakfast - a bowl of tropical fruits and a plate full of ham or bacon, egg, toasted bread with honey and butter, slices of tomato, cucumber and carrot, and cos leaves. Mark had carbonara and Noel, who always seemed famished, ordered tuna sandwich and pork chop with rice. As a perky breakfast treat from NigiNigi, I ordered for more scrambled eggs with onion slices which delighted Noel, who was obviously still starving. We walked back to the hotel after breakfast.
TASTY WATERS, TASTY LUNCH
A bit exhausted from the overnight trip, Jaki and I rested for a while. The two guys, too eager to taste the Boracay saltwaters, donned their bathing suits and fled the room. After an hour, they came back, seemingly rejuvenated from the swim. After watching the Saturday episode of Lovers in Paris, all of us freshened-up for lunch-hunt.
The four of us paced down the tree-lined avenue, peeking from one restaurant menu to another. We walked in and out of every store along the way, picking up souvenir items sold at fairly cheap prices.
It’s a long stretch from our hotel room to station 1. Reaching the boundary between the two stations, Jaki and I lolled under a shade, squeezing fine sands in our hands. The hot wind flipped our hairs as we gazed at the beach. For a moment, we felt sentimental, despite midday heat.
We rested there while keeping an eye on the two guys, who must have lost us when we skimmed through souvenir items in one of the shops. Mark sent a text message, asking where we were. I actually thought they were playing hide and seek with us, so we followed them secretly when they turned right to a narrow alley.
At the end of the alley, they turned right again. I supposed it was a village road because I could see PUJs and tricycles crossing. It was a residential area, but there were also houses renting rooms to tourists.
The two guys seemed unaware that we were right behind them so we caught up and asked where they’re going. Mark said they’re looking for the Metrobank ATM, situated somewhere near the market. The road was concrete, sandwiched by closely-built houses. It was a very long walk and I could feel the heat of the sun piercing my bare arms and legs. My eyes were squinting because of the blinding sunlight. I was only relieved when I saw Noel, 20 giant paces from us, crossed the road to the Metrobank ATM and joined the queuing men.
The three of us leaned against the cemented roadside bunk, and video-recorded the passers-by, bystanders opposite us, and the vicinity. I noticed that the ATM only operates till 1 PM. Noel was fortunate to finish transaction before the closing time.
The two guys led us to the marketplace. A variety of sea foods, vegetables, fruits, and beach stuff lined the market area. In between the stalls were restaurants and souvenir shops. We ended having lunch in one of the restaurants whose staff wore one of my favorite color – TANGERINE!
We ordered crispy pata, sinigang na baboy, and pinakbet. The food servings were a handful and it’s definitely a delicious treat of lutong bahay. No wonder even foreigners, like the ones sitting at the adjacent table, chose to eat there instead of the restaurants serving non-Oriental cuisine. It was a sumptuous lunch I felt porky-sleepy afterwards.
SHOP-HOPPING AND SUNDOWN SWIM
We walked back to station 2, hopping from one shop to the other. We haggled for shirts and ornaments for ourselves and friends back home. We passed by tattoo-ers and massage areas along the beachfront. There were divers’ clubs, too.
At 3 PM, we returned to the hotel and chatted for a while. Mark and Noel, not wanting to miss any moment of Boracay gimmicks, left the room for a drink at NigiNigi. Jaki and I went straight to the beach and basked under the afternoon sun. We soaked ourselves in the cold water and played with an English-speaking 3-year-old girl till sundown.
NIGINIGI CHILL-OUT
Soaked and freezing from the beach, Jaki and I joined the guys, who already befriended the bartender at NigiNigi. I begged Mark to hand me the key to our room but to no avail. The characteristically-curious bartender conspired with our mercy-less pals. He handed me a free NigiNigi cocktail mix to keep me warm. After my third glass of margarita, the chill eventually faded.
As the night deepened, NigiNigi went thick with foreigners and locals, raring to beat the night away with wines, beers, smokes and noise. Almost every high-spirited soul at the bar was casually-but-appropriately-clad. I felt silly with my outfit even with the gradual dawdling of my sensibility (thanks to the cocktails!).
Noel was video-recording Mark, who was busy entertaining the Aussie ladies. Eventually, Jaki successfully conned Noel to get the key from Mark; I pulled the key from Noel’s pocket. We ran to the hotel to dress up for the night activities.
DARK DETOUR FAILED
Erlyn, my friend who flew to Boracay with her hubby and officemates, called me up. She invited me to join them for KTV. Thinking that the two guys were having fun at NigiNigi all by themselves, I asked Jaki if she wanted to join Erlyn’s group instead of going back to NigiNigi. She agreed. To our dismay, the guys picked us up before we could escape.
The four of us met Erlyn and her group at the WAVE. I introduced everyone to the other and we posed before the digital camera for a group picture. We didn’t sing that night because all KTV rooms at the WAVE were already engaged. Erlyn and company went home to their cottages. Becky joined the four of us at the beachfront where an R&B band was playing. We occupied an empty table at the seaside and ordered SM Extra Dry.
The band played familiar tunes that brought me back to my primary and secondary school days. They teased me, thinking I’m way too old because I knew the old songs. Actually, I got familiar with the songs because I heard them from my father everytime he sang with his guitar during social gatherings. And I listened regularly to all the records at home back then.
Unmindful of the lively crowd, Mark and Jaki began teasing each other, poking sands to each other. Suddenly, I heard Jaki screaming as Mark carried her like a sack of rice, running barefooted towards the water. Mark dipped Jaki in the water upside-down. I caught some party-people sniggering behind us while watching the two playing their crazy game. Then they came back, tired from what they thought was fun (maybe it was for them… J). Jaki accepted defeat and resigned from another bout of leg-pulling with Mark.
We lasted for another hour of woven stories and entertainment. When everybody started yawning, Noel and I sent-off Becky home, and then the four of us retreated to the hotel.
KISSING (IN) THE WATER
On sunny Sunday morning, we had breakfast afront a swimming pool at La Carmela de Boracay, the sister-hotel of Boracay Courtyard. Afterwards, we walked towards station 1.
I saw the recently burned-down shops. The remains of the fire were still there but it seemed to me that the locals and visitors were unaffected because it was a business-as-usual atmosphere out there. Temporary roofs were built at the beachside to house the souvenir items. Many visitors paced up and down the stalls, picking up pieces, and haggling for a bargain. We shopped till lunch time.
After lunch, we let a boat and roamed around the island. At mid-sea, our boat stopped amidst the large waves so we could feed the fish and snorkel. Without much ado, Mark and Noel made a dive for the water and snorkeled around the area. I was scared but I couldn’t just sit there and regret in the end for not trying the thrill of being one with the fish at high tide. With my heart pumping too fast and heavy, I jumped in. It was ecstatic! I felt like I was one with the fish swimming around the corals, kissing the water.
We moved to another snorkeling area, stayed there for a while, then sailed off to station 1. The white sand was too fine, finer than the sand in station 2 and 3. It’s a more private place and almost all of the visitors there were foreigners.
We went up the grotto lying some meters away from the beachside, and looked around the area with much awe. It’s a very quiet and peaceful place. From the grotto, we saw couples from all directions, fooling around. There were kids splashing in the waters, too. Some were just lying lazily under the sun, tanning their skin or reading a book.
Before sunset, we were back at station 2.
LAST BORACAY SUPPER
Exhausted from the day activities, the four of us catnapped for an hour or two before dinner. We feasted on corn and crab soup, grilled fish and chicken, pork barbecue, and calamares. While eating, two Dalmatian dogs and a cat approached us. I fed both dogs with left-overs through my barbecue stick. The dogs must have adapted too well with their frequently-peopled environment because they were too comfortable with us, too friendly, if you like. Another white dog with black spot around his eyes lay near us. I fed him, too. Crazy, but we lent the 3 dogs and the cat our namesakes.
We bought cans of SML and chips and sat at the seaside, facing the dark seas. It was near midnight but some people were still out playfully walking along the beach. We didn’t have a rap session at that hour. We just gazed at the starry skies and identified some constellations. Even in their company, the silent darkness left me pensive for some moments. But my wistful moments were, from time to time, broken by Mark’s funny antics and macho-dancing. Dog-tired and heavy-eyed, we called it our last night in Boracay.
BYE, BYE BORACAY
We woke up early on Monday morning, checked out, and had our last meal in Boracay. We did our last-minute-shopping, and then waited for the sailboat going to Caticlan. Able-bodied men carried Noel, Jaki and me to the sailboat. Mark, too heavy for any of the human-carriage, walked through the water going to the sailboat. Off we sailed, I could only give Boracay one last glimpse, and a thought: Boracay beauty, I shall never forget!
We arrived at the Caticlan port, but we missed the 11 AM ferry. Jaki must have been misinformed of the travel schedules. We lunched at Andok’s eatery and waited for the next ferry going to
SUNSET AT SEA
I stood in front of the captain’s cabin, facing the north wind. I could see no piece of land, only the luring vast expanse of the sea. Jaki, Mark and Noel joined me, and after a while, we entered the air-conditioned cabin.
Mark led Jaki and me to the bar. We stood at the back and listened to the guys singing in front of the videoke machine. To pass the time, Mark and I sang, too. Mark enchanted the passengers with Give Him A Chance; I belted out Hiram shamelessly. Encouraged by the applause and convinced by the request for another piece from the ‘audience’, Mark and I crooned Bakit Ngayon Ka Lang. Midway through the song, we caught sight of Noel at the bar buying a cup of noodle. He waved disapprovingly of our duet. Maybe, he was ashamed of our ‘concert’ on a single microphone. We didn’t intend to monopolize the videoke, so we followed Noel outside and sat at the bench. In split-seconds, I realized that the sun was about to set.
From where we were seated, the sun, which looked like a big, round ball of fire, was just about 2 feet above seawater. Slowly, the red-orangey ball of fire lay nestled at the crest of the sea waves. I didn’t blink an eye as I watched fervently how the sea leisurely swallowed the sun. The skies turned grey when the sun fully set.
BACK TO THE CITY
We arrived at the
At midnight, Jaki, Mark and I stayed at the top-most deck of the ferry and talked about anything under the dark skies. Noel slept inside the cabin. After three hours, we reached Batangas.
The trip from Batangas to
AFTERTHOUGHT
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| Shermay and friends |




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